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Wealthier women chose jusi or, by the late 1700s, pia (pineapple fiber), whose translucent sheen and embroidery marked refinement and rank

The model is wearing S and is 170 cm

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Paintings in the exhibition include four recently conserved at the National Trusts Royal Oak Foundation Conservation Studio at Knole, such as a glamorous portrait by Johann Zoffany of Eva Maria Garrick, 18th-century dancer and wife of acclaimed actor David Garrick, dressed in shimmering silk for a masquerade ball